Upgrading the headlights on your 2018–2020 Ford F-150 is one of the highest-impact changes you can make to the truck — it transforms the front-end styling while delivering sharper, safer nighttime visibility.
RIGNOX LED projector headlights for the 13th-gen facelift F-150 run a black housing, a clear DOT-compliant lens, a crisp white C-shaped daytime running light (DRL), and an amber sequential turn signal. This guide covers the whole job — fitment verification, tool prep, the full install, function testing, and troubleshooting — so you can complete the swap cleanly, with no surprises.
This is a complete front-end teardown, not a quick swap. On this truck the headlights sit behind the grille, upper trim, and front-end fascia, so you'll remove the fender flares, lower valance, top cover, and grille to reach them. Read the whole guide before you start.
→ Shop the 2018–2020 Ford F-150 RIGNOX LED Projector Headlights
CRITICAL FITMENT CHECK — BEFORE YOU TOUCH A BOLT. Don't disassemble your truck before confirming compatibility. A headlight that physically bolts in can still fail to match your factory electrical setup — and once a light is wired and powered, it can't be returned.
This kit fits 2018, 2019, and 2020 Ford F-150 (13th Gen Facelift):
- XL / XLT trims with factory halogen headlights — uses the included adapter harness for full functionality.
- Lariat / Platinum / King Ranch trims with factory OEM LED headlights — plugs directly into the factory main connector.
If your truck has had previous lighting modifications, accident repairs, non-OEM wiring harnesses, or a special factory lighting package, contact our support team to confirm fitment before disassembly. Not sure which factory headlights you have? Our headlight buying guide walks you through identifying your setup.
Installation snapshot
This is a moderate-to-advanced DIY job. No special tools are required, but you'll do a full front-end teardown and work carefully with painted panels, plastic clips, and electrical connectors.
| Vehicle | 2018 / 2019 / 2020 Ford F-150 (13th Gen Facelift) |
| Skill level | Moderate to advanced DIY. Professional installation recommended if you're not comfortable removing painted exterior panels or working with automotive wiring. |
| Estimated time | 3–4.5 hours for a careful DIY installer — allow extra time for testing and beam aiming. |
| Key pre-checks | Factory headlight type, connector match, adapter harness, DRL function, turn signal sequence, beam aim. |
Tools and materials
Fastener sizes vary slightly by trim and any previous repairs. Keep all removed hardware organized by location to make reassembly fast and mistake-free.
- 1/4-inch ratchet + extension — the extension is needed to reach the lower grille and headlight bolts
- 7mm, 8mm, 10mm sockets — 7mm for the fender flare, 8mm and 10mm for grille and headlight hardware
- Trim removal tool / plastic pry tool — releasing clips and prying panels without scratching paint
- Flat-head screwdriver + pliers — tight clips and retainers (use carefully)
- Blue painter's tape + microfiber towel — protecting painted edges before prying
- Zip ties — securing harnesses away from heat, sharp edges, and moving parts
- Clean nitrile gloves — keeping fingerprints and oil off the lens and seals
- A level wall or garage door, 25 ft of clear space — final beam aim
Step 1 — Prep the truck and document the factory state
Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and leave the steering wheel centered. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to avoid short circuits during wiring work.
Take clear photos of the factory headlight gaps, connector layout, and harness routing on both sides. That's your reference for reassembly.
Step 2 — Release the fender flares
The headlights on this truck are partly captured behind the front fender flares, so both flares come loose first.
- Using a 7mm socket, remove the single fastener on the inner edge of the front fender flare.
- Apply blue painter's tape along the seam where the flare meets the painted body, then use a plastic pry tool to work the flare outward, away from the body.
- With the flare pulled back, look inside the wheel arch for a hidden black retaining clip behind the splash guard — pull it out with the pry tool. It's easy to miss, and the flare won't fully release until it's out.
- Repeat on the other side so both flares are loose.
Take your time with the tape and pry tool here — this is where paint gets scratched if you rush.
Step 3 — Remove the lower valance
By hand, pull the body-colored lower valance (the one-piece panel below the headlights and grille) outward at each end to release its clips, then take the whole panel off.
Step 4 — Remove the top cover and intake
Open the hood. Using the pry tool, pull out all the plastic clips holding the upper plastic cover above the grille and radiator — there are clips along the front edge, two at the air intake, one in the corner, and three hidden clips under the rear edge of the cover. Remove the cover and the intake piece. Set all clips in a labeled tray.
Step 5 — Disconnect the active grille shutter harness
Before you touch the grille, find the power connector for the active grille shutters, next to the hood latch. Press the tab and unplug it, then pry the wiring retainer clip off the frame.
Don't skip this. If you pull the grille out with this connector still plugged in, you'll tear the harness.
Step 6 — Remove the grille
- Using a 10mm socket, remove the 4 bolts across the top of the grille.
- Directly below each headlight, use an 8mm socket on an extension to remove the lower grille bolt on each side (one per side).
- Grip the grille near the headlight edges, rock it slightly rearward, and pull it outward. Once both sides are free, firmly pull the bottom clips loose and lift the whole grille away.
Step 7 — Remove the factory headlight assembly
With the grille out, the headlight bolts are accessible:
- Pull out the plastic clip on top of the headlight with the pry tool, then remove the 2 top bolts with a 10mm socket.
- Remove the single bolt at the lower outer corner of the headlight, near the fender.
- Remove the 2 bolts directly below the headlight — the outer is 10mm, the inner is 8mm.
- Slide the pry tool into the gap of the plastic deflector below the headlight, press down, and push the lower retaining clips forward. This frees the bottom of the headlight so it won't snag on the way out.
Critical — pull straight forward only. There's a long locating pin on the side of the headlight that seats into the fender. Pulling or prying sideways will snap that pin or damage the fender. Straight out, slowly, is the only correct direction.
Once it's out, press the release tab on the factory headlight connector(s) on the back and unplug them. Set the factory headlight on a soft surface to protect the lens.
Step 8 — Verify fit before connecting
Hold the RIGNOX headlight next to the factory unit and confirm:
- Correct left/right orientation
- Matching mounting tab shape and position, including that side locating pin
- Rear cap clearance — no interference with anything behind the housing
- Correct connector style for your trim
- Gasket properly seated on the new headlight
This is also the moment to confirm whether your truck needs the included adapter harness — halogen trims (XL / XLT) do; factory OEM LED trims (Lariat / Platinum / King Ranch) plug straight in.
Step 9 — Connect the wiring and route the harnesses
Connect the main headlight connector first, then attach the included adapter harness if your trim requires it. Route all wiring along the factory harness paths wherever possible.
Critical. Keep all wires clear of the radiator fan, sharp metal brackets, hot engine components, and the hood latch mechanism. Secure loose sections with zip ties, but don't over-tighten — leave slight slack so nothing pulls on the connectors.
Important. Keep all connectors clean and dry. Do not apply dielectric grease or weather-sealing compound to the plugs — it can cause connection problems and corrosion over time.
Step 10 — Test ALL functions before mounting anything back
Don't bolt the headlight in or reassemble the front end before testing. This is the single most important step for avoiding a full teardown a second time.
Reconnect the battery temporarily, then test every function on both sides:
- White C-shaped DRL
- Low beam and high beam
- Left and right turn signals
- Hazard lights
- Parking / marker lights
Confirm the amber sequential turn signal animates smoothly on both sides, and check the dashboard for any warning lights. If anything doesn't work correctly, fix the connection now, while everything is still apart and access is easy.
Step 11 — Mount the RIGNOX headlight
Once all functions pass, guide the headlight straight back into the opening — line up that side locating pin first, then seat the housing. Make sure all locating tabs sit flat and the gasket isn't folded or pinched. Tighten the mounting bolts evenly by hand first, then torque to factory spec.
Never force the lamp into place with the bolts. If it doesn't sit flush, remove it and check for tab or locating-pin misalignment, or wiring interference behind the housing.
Step 12 — Reassemble the front end
Reinstall everything in the reverse order you removed it:
- Refit the grille and tighten its top (10mm) and lower (8mm) bolts.
- Reconnect the active grille shutter harness and clip the wiring retainer back to the frame.
- Refit the top cover and intake, and press every plastic clip fully home.
- Refit the lower valance.
- Seat both fender flares back against the body, reinstall the hidden inner clips, and tighten the 7mm inner fasteners.
Confirm every clip clicks fully into place and all bolts are snug. Check the panel gaps around each headlight from the front, side, and top.
Step 13 — Aim the headlights
Park the truck 25 feet from a flat, level wall or garage door, on level ground. The top edge of the low-beam cutoff line should sit at or slightly below the height of the headlight center on the wall. Adjust the aim screws on the back of the headlight until the pattern is even and doesn't glare into oncoming traffic.
Proper aim isn't optional — it's required for safety and DOT / FMVSS 108 compliance.
Post-install testing checklist
Run this before your first night drive.
Troubleshooting common issues
Nearly all post-install issues come from loose connectors or trim-specific wiring differences. Start with the simplest checks, and compare the working side to the non-working side.
- One headlight won't turn on — likely a loose or unseated main connector. Unplug and reconnect the main plug until you hear a firm click.
- White DRL doesn't illuminate — missing adapter harness, or the wrong harness for your trim. Confirm you're using the correct included harness for your factory headlight type.
- Turn signal hyperflashes — CANbus load mismatch or a loose signal connection. Re-seat the turn signal connector; verify the decoder or resistor is connected if your trim requires it.
- Sequential signal works on only one side — a loose signal harness or pinched wire. Inspect the signal wiring behind the housing for pinches or loose connections.
- Headlight won't pull out / feels stuck — the lower retaining clips weren't pushed forward, or you're pulling at an angle. Re-check the bottom clips and pull straight forward only.
- Moisture or condensation inside the lens — a loose rear cap, misaligned gasket, or blocked vent. Check that all rear covers and seals are fully seated, and don't block the factory vent ports.
- Beam pattern too high or too low — uneven mounting or unadjusted aim. Re-check the mounting tab seating, then re-aim on level ground.
- Dashboard bulb-out warning — a CANbus power mismatch. Confirm all decoder / adapter harnesses are connected, and verify no factory bulb-monitoring coding has been modified.
A note on condensation. Minor, temporary fogging inside the lens after a temperature change is normal and clears on its own through the vent system. Persistent water pooling points to a seal issue.
You're done
That's the full swap. With the front end back together, the beam aimed, and every function checked, your 2018–2020 F-150 is ready for its first night drive — sharper light, cleaner front-end, done right.
→ Shop the 2018–2020 Ford F-150 RIGNOX LED Projector Headlights
→ Not sure it fits? Read our headlight buying guide first
Built for your rig. Made for the night.
