Aftermarket headlights are one of the biggest visual upgrades you can make to a vehicle, and choosing the right set takes three details. Get them right and the swap goes on clean: no cutting, no surprises.
Choose your set in 3 steps
1. Your year and model. Pick the listing for your exact year. Year ranges are split where the factory changed the headlight, so the listing for your year is the one built for your mounting points.
2. Your factory headlight type. Your trim decided which factory headlight you got, and it takes 30 seconds to tell. Look into the headlight with it off. A chrome bowl behind the bulb means a reflector; a glass lens inside the housing, round or square, means a projector. Then look at the back of the housing: a round rubber cap or twist-in bulb socket means halogen or HID — and a separate ballast box wired to it means HID. No bulb access at all, plus a daytime light that glows as a strip, means factory LED. If the listing asks which factory headlight you have, pick that one.
3. The look you want. Choose the projector layout (Single, Dual, Triple or Quad — see what the number changes), the housing finish, and on some models an RGB or halo accent.
Not sure about step 2? Send us your year, model and a photo of your factory headlight, and we'll confirm the right set within one business day. Confirming fitment is free.
Find headlights for your vehicle → · Ask us to confirm fitment →
What's in the box and what keeps working
- A quiet dash. Most US-market vehicles run a CANbus system that watches each lighting circuit. LEDs draw less power than factory bulbs, which can trigger a dash warning or a fast-flashing turn signal (hyper-flash). Every RIGNOX LED headlight has CANbus decoders built into the assembly, and the resistors that stop hyper-flash and dash codes are included — plug-in, no cutting or splicing; mount them where your installation guide shows.
- Factory connectors. Where your factory connector differs, the adapter harness is in the box. If your car has no factory daytime-running-light plug, here's how to find switched power.
- Your factory features. Most vehicles we build for never had adaptive headlights from the factory, so on most cars nothing is lost in the swap. Auto high beams keep working. You can always level the beam: some models carry a leveling motor that works with your factory leveling system — look for "Powered leveling" in the Aim Adjustment row — and the rest are leveled with adjusters on the back of the housing. Vehicles with factory adaptive driving beam (ADB / matrix) or swiveling (AFS) headlights aren't listed as compatible. The full rundown is in Which Factory Features Carry Over.
- An easy install. Most owners install a set in the driveway with basic hand tools, and any shop can do it in an hour or two — and if you get stuck, message us.
Want the smoked look? Here's how we do it
Most RIGNOX headlights create a dark look with a blacked-out housing behind a clear lens; select products offer chrome internal finishes. That's deliberate. A tinted headlight lens cuts light output and carries DOT / FMVSS 108 compliance risk, so we black out the housing instead and keep the lens clear. You get the murdered-out look with the lights off, and an honest, legal beam with them on. (Smoked lenses are a tail-light option, where they belong — see the tail light buying guide.)
Why fitment works the way it does
For anyone who wants the detail behind the three steps: every headlight fitment question is really two questions, and a headlight has to pass both.
- Physical — will the housing physically bolt into your vehicle using the factory mounting points?
- Electrical — once it's in, will it work correctly with your vehicle's factory wiring and light source?
Physical: look at the headlight, not the car
Start with the factory lamp's shape and mounting points. Fitment is decided by your factory headlight's mounting interface and outer shape — not by how similar two model years look from the outside.
Here's the rule we build by: look at the light, not the car. A vehicle can get a mid-cycle refresh — new bumper, new grille, new badges — and still use the exact same headlight mounting. If the headlight didn't change, the fitment didn't change. And the reverse is true: two years that look nearly identical from the curb can take completely different headlights if the factory changed the housing.
The golden test. If you pulled your factory headlight off, could our assembly drop into place using the same mounting points — no modifying the headlight, no modifying the body, no modifying anything around it — with even gaps and every fixing point usable? If yes, it physically fits. That's the standard every RIGNOX listing is built to.
Why year ranges are split the way they are. When you see the same vehicle listed across different year ranges, those splits aren't arbitrary — each one marks a point where the factory changed the headlight's physical interface. They don't always line up with a generation change or a facelift you'd notice from the outside. Your job is simply to match your exact year to the right range. The listing handles the rest.
Shared platforms — one headlight, several names. Sometimes vehicles sold under different names share the exact same factory headlight mounting, so they share one headlight listing. The reason is the mounting interface is identical — not that the names are related. If the interface matches, the part fits, whatever the badge says.
Confirm headlights on their own. Don't assume your headlights and tail lights split at the same years — the factory often updates one end of a vehicle without touching the other. Body style works the same way: sedans, coupes, and hatchbacks of the same generation often share a headlight while taking different tail lights. A headlight that fits your body style doesn't mean the matching tail light does. Check each end separately.
One more thing: don't treat the OEM part number as your only fitment reference. Factories change part numbers across suppliers and production batches without the headlight itself changing, so a number match alone doesn't guarantee fit — and a mismatch doesn't rule it out. It's a useful cross-check for experienced builders, but the physical assembly, anchored to your year, make, and model, is what actually decides it.
Electrical: your trim picked your headlight
Here's something most buyers never think about: a factory doesn't build one headlight per vehicle. Within the same generation, there are usually two or three factory headlight versions, and your trim level decided which one you got. Base trims get the simplest version; higher trims step up. Roughly, from bottom to top:
- Halogen reflector — a bulb sitting in a chrome bowl. The base-trim headlight on most trucks and entry-level cars.
- Halogen or HID projector — a round or square lens inside the housing that focuses the beam. On older vehicles, upper trims often ran HID here, powered by a separate ballast box.
- Factory LED — LED projectors and a light-strip daytime running light, no replaceable bulb. Mid and upper trims on most current vehicles.
- Adaptive (ADB / matrix) — top-trim units that dim sections of the high beam around other cars. Few vehicles in our lineup ever had these.
Two versions can share the same outer shape and still be wired completely differently — same outline, different light source inside. That's why we build to the factory version, not just the year. Where a vehicle came with more than one factory headlight, a listing handles it one of two ways: a separate build for each factory version, or one build that fits them all, with an adapter harness in the box for the versions whose connector differs.
On a small number of vehicles, the light-source difference also changes the housing's mounting structure, so it isn't purely an electrical choice. Where that's the case, the product page spells out which version fits your setup.
If you want to double-check your factory headlight type:
- Check your owner's manual — the lighting section lists your factory headlight type (halogen, HID, or LED) and whether you have an adaptive system.
- Run your VIN — your VIN decodes to your vehicle's original factory build, including its lighting package and trim. An official dealer VIN lookup is the most accurate; free online tools can have incomplete or incorrect lighting-package details, so double-check anything that looks off.
- Compare the shape — match your factory headlight against the product-page photos. If the housing outline and mounting points line up with your year's listing, you're in the right place.
When in doubt, the product page is the source of truth — and if you're still unsure, send us your year, make, model, and trim and we'll confirm the right set before you order.
Special cases: modified vehicles
If your vehicle has been modified before — by you or a previous owner — don't assume it's still in factory condition. Those changes can affect how a new headlight fits and works.
A 5-minute pre-check makes the install go clean:
- Physical check — confirm the factory headlight mounting holes, front bumper, and radiator support are in original condition, with no cutting, drilling, or deformation.
- Restore the electrical — remove all add-ons from previous lighting mods (ballasts, decoders, extra harnesses) and return the car to its original factory plug and wiring.
- Confirm your current configuration — go by your vehicle's actual current headlight connector and light source, not what it had from the factory.
- Test, then mount — with the factory wiring restored, plug the headlight in and power it on before you bolt anything in. Confirm no error codes, no flickering, and full function — only then do the physical install.
A few more things common on modified vehicles:
- Power and ground. Added accessories — audio, a winch, extra lights — sometimes leave spliced power or ground wiring behind. A weak or dirty ground can cause intermittent LED flicker that's easy to blame on the light itself. Confirm stable voltage and clean grounds.
- Ride height and aim. Lowered, lifted, or re-sprung vehicles sit at a different angle, which throws off headlight aim. The light may seem to "not reach" when it's really a stance issue — these vehicles usually need the headlights re-aimed after install. Here's how to aim them.
- Reprogrammed electronics. If the vehicle's electrical system has been modified or reprogrammed (ECU tunes, added modules), its CANbus behavior may differ from factory, and error-code behavior can change too. If your vehicle has been tuned or reprogrammed, mention it and we'll double-check for you.
Before you order — the short version
- Identify your factory headlight — reflector, projector, or factory LED — by looking at it, or from your owner's manual or VIN. Note whether you have adaptive headlights.
- Match your exact year to the right listing — and confirm headlights separately from tails.
- Use the golden test: does it bolt to the factory mounting points with no modifications?
- If the listing asks which factory headlight you have, pick the one your vehicle left the factory with.
- If your vehicle has been modified before, run the modified-vehicle checklist and test-power the light before mounting.
Do those and you'll order right the first time. Every RIGNOX headlight page is built to give you exactly what you need to confirm them all.
Built for your rig. Made for the night.
